Cape Verde travel guide: Sal, Santa Maria

Cape Verde, Africa. An archipelago in the Atlantic.
10 islands with sun, sand, water and wind and vastly different nature.
Green and brown volcanic islands with varied experiences.

Here you will find practical tips and background knowledge of Cape Verde, an area that has come on the radar of a.o. Danish tourists. A sunny winter destination that offers a mix of raw, unspoilt Africa and ‘polished’ tourist areas. Here in a positive sense; it provides the islands with a source of income and curious tourists a starting point for more African experiences.

Any doubts about going to Sal or Boa Vista? Read on.

The time difference between Denmark and Cape Verde is only – 2 hours (winter), – 3 hours (summer), which means there are no problems with changes in circadian rhythm or jet lag at home or at home.

The Cape Verde Islands have a visa requirement, but the visa can be issued through the travel agency (2-3 weeks before departure – recommended) or upon entry into one of their airports (but then you have to queue for it). Read about the general rules at your Foreign Ministry pages.

Vaccination

In the tourist areas of the islands of Sal and Boa Vista there is no recommendation from the travel agencies on vaccination. However, when traveling to Africa, including the Cape Verde Islands, some tour guides recommend (some time before departure) to protect themselves with vaccination against diphtheria, yellow fever, hepatitis A and tetanus.

There is a small risk of malaria, but usually the doctor does not recommend taking medication for it. On the other hand, it is recommended to protect yourself from mosquito bites with mosquito repellent and / or long sleeves and pants, and with mosquito nets at night when sleeping. Please ask. your own doctor.

I paid EUR 400 for a 3 star hotel (which had four stars on the facade), 1.2 km from the city center, but on the main street opposite the Hilton and 100 meters from the beach. It was a bargain with far better facilities and service than expected.

Cape Verde stays are “easy” – even for curious travelers who aren’t exactly adventurers:

The population is smiling and welcoming, holiday homes and hotels are good, the food is mostly tasty, there are fitness centers at the big hotels (and outdoor fitness on the beach), you pay with euros or cape verde escudos, CVE, cash or VISA, electricity is like in northern Europe and wifi is widespread and well functioning in hotels and restaurants.

The peak season is at Cape Verde from November to March. December is probably the ‘low season’ in the middle of the peak season and the coolest time with 24-27 degrees and mixed sunshine and overcast every day. At this time, there are relatively few tourists.

Highest average daytime temperatures are around 24-30 degrees C; from 26 ° C (79 ° F) in February to 31 ° C (87.8 ° F) in September. It rarely rains; irregular between August and October with frequent short, heavy rainfall. Most of this year’s rain falls in September.

A desert is usually defined by terrain that receives less than 250 mm of annual rainfall. Sal’s total volume (145 mm (5.7 in)) falls in this category.

Cape Verde is close to the equator, so even though the climate feels mild, it’s important to keep in mind the following to avoid heat stroke and burns:

• Drink plenty of bottled water (remember that alcohol dehydrates).
• Wear a sun hat, cap, scarf or similar.
• Avoid being out in the midday sun around 12-15.
• Use plenty of sunscreen, factor 30-50, or cover the body.

The wind makes the year-round weather feel mild, a bit like a Nordic summer – not too hot and sometimes cool if you are stationary. When moving, the air feels pleasant.

It is possible to sit outside and eat in the evening, but it can get chilly. Many restaurants are open, but covered, and it is good, but some may need a jacket.

Language

The official language is Portuguese. In addition, in Cape Verde Creole (a mixture of West African and Portuguese) is spoken. Staff at hotels and restaurants speak and understand some English (some German and French).

You can exchange EUR to CVE in banks for showing passports or alternatively in some hotels.
There are many ATMs in town and in the hotels (Sal). Note that there is a fee, so avoid withdrawing many small amounts, also because CVE is only used in Cape Verde.
VISA cards are widespread. MasterCard not so.

Hygiene

It is pretty clean in the tourist areas, inside and out in hotels and restaurants, the toilet conditions are good and there is soap and paper in most places. Still, be sure to avoid unwanted bacteria:

• Drink bottled water
• Wash hands frequently and with soap (use hand spray if necessary)

Transport and traffic

There are a total of 1100 km of road on the Cape Verde Islands. Approximately 858 km of these are paved.
At Sal and Boa Vista you can rent cars so you can get around the island.
However, the roads are in poor condition in many places, so getting around is not easy.

It is recommended to take a look at the island on a guided island tour, which may be just as cheap or cheaper than renting a car for a day.

Cycling and electric biking is very popular and there is many bicycle rental places at Sal and Boa Vista; also in hotels.

You can also take long walks along the coasts. If you want ‘real’ hiking, hiking, on volcanoes in green surroundings, you should choose some of the other islands.

From Sal to Boa Vista there is also a boat trip with a catamaran, Maximus, with daily departures, 9am and 2pm, for 50 euros per person (2019).

Ferry departures are irregular. You can go on “island hopping”, trips between the islands, but it is not easy and requires a lot of time (eg longer stays of 2-3 weeks).

Cape Verde has seven airports; at Boa Vista, Fogo, Maio, Sal, Santiago, Sao Nicolau, Sao Vicente. These are all small airports. The largest are at Sal, Amílcar Cabral International Airport, and at Santiago, Francisco Mendes International Airport, and Boa Vista, Rabil Airport.

Anne-Vibeke (traveling) recommends eating at Farolin Restaurant in Odjo d’Aqua on the outskirts of Santa Maria. Here you sit on an open terrace overlooking the city and the sea. Under the terrace, the waves strike the rocks. You should book a table.

I would recommend, among others, LobStar (for the atmosphere and the view of the sand), Le Privé for the experience and the food and the taste, as well as George’s (for tasty food and local ambiance – in a minimalistic setting).

Food beverages are bottled spring water, beer (also local), and European or overseas wine, such as Portuguese or Argentine, or the local Cha, which tastes excellent (alcohol percentage 14%). Before or after the meal there is the option of the usual drinks and cocktails (I saw no mocktails without alcohol).

The local specialty, the islands national drink, is grogue. It is made on cane juice and is somewhat reminiscent of rum. There are dark and light versions and sweet flavors that taste like liqueur.

You may give gratuity (which is not included in the price) of about 10%. Note that the locals do not take it for granted and there is no pressure.
When I left gratuity last day at the hotel, the waiter found me later in the morning and asked if I had forgotten my money on the table.

In another place, I paid a lot too much and could only “get change later”, but it never happened. Some locals probably think that tourists have a lot of money and this is a situation to get the most out of. So take that into account and arrange fixed prices, agreed amount, in advance.

Cap verde

Cape Verde or Cabo Verde, the official name, means “green spring” in Portuguese. An archipelago consisting of 10 volcanic islands (and 8 small islets) located in the Atlantic Ocean, approx. 570 km (350 mi) west of the Cape Verde Peninsula on the North African mainland (Dakar).

All the islands are volcanic, but only Fogo has an active volcano (eruption in 1951, 1995, 2014).

The archipelago is part of the Macaronesia region together with the Azores, the Canary Islands, Madeira and the Savage Islands. Total area is approximately 4,033 square miles (1,500 sq mi).

Coffee and sugar are produced in some of the islands. At Fogo also the local wine (red wine and white wine), Cha, which is light and tasty. Otherwise, the natural resources – apart from the fish in the sea – are limited, so service industry and tourism are most widespread.

Sotavento Islands (islands on the Lee side):
May, Saint James (Santiago), Fire, Brava

The largest island in size and population size is Sao Tiago, where the capital of the Republic of Praia is located. However, Sal is the island where tourism is most systematized and widespread; fortunately without towering tourist hotels.

The islands are vastly different in appearance. Three of Cape Verde’s islands, Sal, Boa Vista and Maio, are relatively flat, sandy and dry; the others are generally more mountainous with more vegetation.

There are also great social contrasts: from the cities’ fine houses and luxury hotels to the outskirts of cities and the aluminum shelters in the countryside (without water, so children and adults carry water to the home in large plastic tanks).

The islands developed economically throughout the 16th and 17th centuries and attracted traders and pirates. The end of transatlantic slavery in the 19th century led to economic decline and emigration. Cape Verde only gradually returned to its former glory as an important trading center and stop-over for freight routes.

Cape Verde became an independent African republic in 1975 following the carnival revolution in Portugal on April 25, 1974. Cape Verde’s largest city is the capital Praia, located on the island of São Tiago.
Cape Verde has been a stable representative democracy since the 1990s and remains one of the most developed and democratic countries in Africa.

There are only limited natural resources, so the economy – which took a severe fall during the financial crisis – is mainly based on tourism and foreign investment. The country is a member state of the African Union.

Population is approx. 540,000 inhabitants (2017), mostly of mixed European, Portuguese, Spanish, Arabic and African descent.

The religion is predominantly Roman Catholic (over 90%) taken over from the former Portuguese colonial power, but with the influence of local African traditions. A minority of the inhabitants are Protestants (less than 10%).

Sal

Sal is one of the islands in the archipelago of Cape Verde, more specifically the Barlavento islands: on the windward side.
Cape Verde’s largest (but rather small) international airport, Amílcar Cabral International Airport, is located at Espargos in the northern part of Sal, about 20 minutes drive from the main city of Santa Maria.

The name Sal means salt in Portuguese and refers to the earlier very extensive salt extraction on the island.

Sal is the most well-developed island touristy, so there are many opportunities to stay in small or large hotels or resorts with larger swimming pool areas and more leisure activities.

The area is small 216 sqm. and there are approximately 17,244 inhabitants, of which 11367 live in Santa Maria and 5,877 in Espargos, the two largest cities.

Desert Landscape

From above, the island looks almost completely sand-colored and golden. That impression largely persists when you land and get around the island.

The island consists mainly of desert landscape; not with large sand dunes, but with brown, solid sand and dust and scattered low bushes. There are only a few trees, apart from a limited number of beautiful palm trees around the main city of Santa Maria.